Demna showcased, and well he conquered – but that’s what he usually does, because he’s capable of upstaging the mantra of couture. He brought his collection taking inspiration from trompe l’oeil handcrafted techniques to imitate fur, using denim and a variety of silks to create structured silhouettes in primitive colours of black white, grey and popping neons.
Such an epic stroke of his genius is exactly what you could expect of Demna for his arrival at Paris Haute Couture Fashion this season. Inside his show, hilarity broke out. Numbered looks, and every one of the models truthfully looking drop-dead gorgeous — sleek, chic gowns with severe sequin columns, outsize back tailoring, not taking the humongous jacket shoulders route but actually cutting wide funneled necklines into narrow women’s coats and jackets this season. Demna knows what fashion industry is thinking — and where he can go with it.
Truth be told, silhouettes featured the cutting edge luxe ethereal evening gowns and exquisite capes that paid homage to Cristóbal Balenciaga with the underlining couture techniques. Even the windswept raincoats and mufflers caterwauled a perfect balance of couture and wearability. It was like exploring the border, quite border-lined.
In Demna’s fashion multiverse, the collection featured gorgeous colour palette of dresses that redefined pulled-together-chic with a big bow as a cherry on top of a multi-layered cake — a very cohesive collection.
The show that opened with the interpretation of the original Cristóbal Balenciaga design, worn by delicate Danielle Slavik, who originally modelled it for Balenciaga himself, connected the past and the present; and ended with Eliza Douglas, walking in a shining, chrome-laminated 3D printed bell-skirted suit of armor — futuristic in every sense and bone.
Lots of movement here and there, a taffeta neckline vividly blown to one side, unbuttoned coats, and a deep-plunge corset and draped skirt wiped the runway off with its perfection. It was less runway, more drama, a mere performance, on every level, as we’ve come to expect from one of the few fashion designers in the world who most successfully commands attention.
Apart from the yarns and yarns of silk and sequins running throughout the showcase, a leather jacket with voluminous colour and high waisted seamless boxer shorts did it for me! That was the winner. Minimal, and wearable right off the runway. Even with the dresses that screamed volume and couture — it was about owning a look. Remember, you need to innovate. It might be a long step too far for normal people, but that’s surely the point. There are extremists who will gladly follow anything Demna does. And will follow anything to create a statement.
For the first time, Balenciaga Couture also offered sunglasses as part of the collection, starting with classic styles recast in precious materials and ending it with chunky frames of statement.
One thing I’ve noticed about Demna is that he enhances the practicality of his dresses with the tiny hidden details that are flaunted on the runway as models sashay down the ramp. He pushes way to well the elegance trend with its easy structured designs, with sharp cuts and leave enough room to breathe easy in this dire summer or at a cocktail party. He always knows how to translate well to retail and if you intend making a statement, his pieces will make you stand out all right. There’s no faking it and if you don’t believe me, all you have to do is visit the Balenciaga store near you, and witness the instant crowds and crowds of fashion connoisseurs. This is fashion fetishism in real sense and it is thrilling to say the least.




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