By Sarah GishIn the autumn of 2011, cookbook author Judith Fertig took on an ambitious assignment: Write a book of cinnamon roll recipes in 60 days.Fertig loves cinnamon rolls, and she’s authored more than 20 cookbooks on everything from bread to barbecue. Still, this was no easy task.The expert baker holed up in her Overland Park, Kansas, kitchen with colossal amounts of flour, butter, and sugar. She gathered four kinds of cinnamon and started rolling it into swirls of every shape and size. Her overworked oven churned out all kinds of crave-worthy creations: Carrot Cake Cinnamon Rolls with Pineapple-Cream Cheese Frosting. Mexican Chocolate Cinnamon Rolls spiked with ancho chile. Moroccan-inspired crescents filled with black pepper and rose petals.Fertig would taste each one, then hand out leftovers to neighbours, friends and family members. “I was very popular for a while,” she says.At the end of those two months, Fertig had lots of new friends and another cookbook: I Love Cinnamon Rolls! (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2012).The book has everything from traditional sticky buns to gluten-free rolls. The recipes are customisable, so you easily change out the dough, filling, pan sauce or topping.As for the cookbook author, she’s a native Midwesterner, so it’s no surprise she likes cinnamon rolls that are soft and gooey, filled with lots of mouth-watering brown sugar and warm cinnamon.“If you’re going to have a cinnamon roll,” Fertig says, “have a cinnamon roll.” Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough Makes 6 jumbo, 12 large, 16-20 medium, or 48 mini rolls Ingredients1 cup whole milk4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened1/3 cup granulated sugar1 teaspoon salt2 large eggs3 1/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and dusting2 ½ teaspoons instant or bread machine yeast MethodIn a 4-cup measuring cup, combine the milk, butter, sugar and salt. Microwave on high for 1 minute or until warm (Careful: Exceed 130 degrees and you’ll kill the yeast). Whisk in the eggs.Place the flour and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add the liquid ingredients. Mix on low speed, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl from time to time, until the dough forms a soft mass and starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl, 5 to 6 minutes.Remove the paddle attachment and switch to the dough hook. With the mixer on low, knead the dough with the dough hook. Sprinkle the dough with a tablespoon of flour, if necessary, to keep it from sticking to the sides of the bowl. When the dough is smooth, not sticky, and springs back when you press it with your finger, you’ve kneaded it enough (4 to 6 minutes). Place the dough in a large, oiled mixing bowl, cover with a tea towel and let rise in a warm place (about 85 degrees) for 45 to 60 minutes, or until it has almost doubled.Proceed with a cinnamon roll recipe. Swedish Cinnamon Rolls Makes 48 mini rolls Ingredients1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough (see above)Flour for dusting½ cup granulated sugar1 tablespoon cinnamon1 teaspoon cardamom4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted2 large egg yolks, beaten with 2 teaspoons water¾ cup Swedish pearl sugar or coarsely crushed sugar cubes MethodLine 48 muffin cups with cupcake liners.Transfer the dough to a floured surface. Cut the dough in fourths. Roll each fourth out to an 8-by-12-inch rectangle.For the filling, combine the sugar, cinnamon and cardamom in a small bowl. Brush a fourth of the butter over the dough and sprinkle with a fourth of the spice mixture.Roll up the dough and form it into a tight 12-inch-long cylinder. Cut each cylinder into 12 slices. Place each slice, spiral side up, in a paper-lined muffin cup. Repeat with the remaining dough. Cover the pans with a tea towel and rest in a warm place until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.Brush the tops of the rolls with egg wash and sprinkle with pearl sugar.Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, or until lightly browned. Classic Cinnamon Rolls Makes 12 large rolls Ingredients1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough (see above)Flour for dusting8 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided and softened1 cup packed dark brown sugar2 ½ tablespoons cinnamon2 cups confectioners’ sugarPinch of salt1 tablespoon whole milk1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted2 tablespoons strong brewed coffee½ tablespoon maple syrupFor the pan sauce, spread 4 tablespoons of the butter into the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch pan. MethodTransfer the dough to a floured surface and roll out to a 16-by-20-inch rectangle.For the filling, combine the brown sugar and cinnamon in a bowl. Spread the dough with 4 tablespoons of the butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Starting with the shorter side, roll up the dough to form a tight 16-inch cylinder. Cut the cylinder into 12 rolls. Place in the prepared pan, spiral side up. Cover with a tea towel and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes or until lightly browned on top.For the glaze, whisk the remaining ingredients together in a medium bowl. Drizzle over the warm rolls. — The Kansas City Star/MCT