The new generation of indigenous designers have come across as confident and forward looking. They are not afraid of change, writes Shalinee Bhardwaj
The stage is set and the venue packed as the gleaming runway gets ready to receive this year’s fashion statement, right out of the creator’s desk.
The scene describes the effervescent fashion show organised recently by Virginia Commonwealth University-Qatar (VCUQatar) and hosted by Salam at The Gate Mall. This was VCUQatar fashion department’s 15th production that showcased the collections of 16 VCUQatar seniors and three VCU Richmond seniors.
Aptly named as ‘Centre front’, the show wooed Doha’s fashion hungry consumers up to the hilt. The collections were put together by VCUQatar fashion design students and closely touched the mark of professionalism in every respect.
Even though the fashion scene appeared to be dominated by a synergy of modernity and tradition, students also didn’t fail to experiment with some bold designs in varied fabrics resulting in beautifully crafted dresses that were a feast for any connoisseur of fashion. A seamless combination of leather, wool felt, netted lace fabrics stitched into asymmetric patterns interestingly appeared to be in perfect harmony with each other, indicating at the fine skills and sense of balance in these upcoming fashion designers.
Pastels and earthy shades were used as frequently as the evergreen bright reds, black and blues. The one thing that captured my eye and attention was the ease with which a variety of fabric and colours were blended together into harmonious designs; and the use of bold, asymmetric cuts and patterns that appeared perfectly elegant and in agreement with each other, lending the dresses a very wearable appeal.
The VCUQ Annual Fashion Show 2014 comprised of Children’s Wear put together by the sophomores, the Sportswear designed by junior year and the senior thesis collection that reinforces the individual vision, creativity and styles of the young designers. The show also featured senior fashion design students — Jame’t Jackson, Joey Zuraf and Noela Tian, from the VCU Richmond campus as guest designers.
This year the sophomores presented a fanciful collection called ‘Happy’— a cheerful interplay of colour, patterns and design elements. The stage bubbled with the charming little boys and girls, some shy and hesitant while others confidently walking the ramp amidst thunderous clapping from a delighted audience.
The cheerful semi formal collection was created using polka dots, stripes, floral, denim and lace. The collection focused on incorporating the basic design elements like pockets, collars, various fullness techniques, cascades and ruffles to showcase a pleasant ensemble of dresses, pants and jackets.
Also on show was the outfit without which a woman’s wardrobe is never complete — the ‘Little Black Dress’; a fashion essential and perfect pair for the finest of jewels! The junior students moved away from the stereotypic clichés of their theme, bringing in a strong individuality to their collection. Taking androgyny as the starting point, they brought in a new perspective to this fashion theme.
The senior thesis collection reflected the individual aesthetic of each student inspiring day and evening looks that varied from being minimalistic to superfluous. For Ahmed Malalla, fashion is a form of art and self expression.
“When I imagine my collection, I surround myself with my favourite things, friends, family, colours, fabrics; that’s how I start sketching and combining all ideas into one garment,” says Ahmed.
Aisha al-Naemi’s evening dresses found inspiration in the jazz of the bustling and glamorous city of New York. She says, “I incorporated block colours with elegant detailing that is desirable and oozes sophistication. I am designing for the strong and independent woman who is comfortable in her own skin.”
Douha al-Jozali presented the Spring Collection inspired by geishas and was homage to the strength of women. Hisham Dawoud’s geometrical patterns in black and white drew inspiration from “a dream, a thought, a memory, an experience, a song, a fantasy….”
Continuing Hisham says, “Using fashion as a means of escaping a mundane reality and entering worlds of your own creation for even a brief moment in time is what I strive to do as a designer.”
Maha al-Saad experimented with softness, venturing into a world of new possibilities. “Red and pink never had it easy as a pair. Always dismissed as a fashion crime for so long, I wanted to explore the beauty of these two colours paired together, and the results were magical!” exclaims Maha.
While Munira explored extravaganza in the bridal collection and Noor Rashid al-Thani brought out the innocence and soft feminity in her designs, Rayah al-Meghaisaib’s ensemble mimicked the delicacy of flower petals tuning a fine balance between the rational and the radical.
The VCUQatar’s Golden Needle Awards given to the most outstanding students in the fashion design department were announced on the third day of the fashion show by Sandra Wilkins, Chair of the Fashion Design Department. Imelda B. Jurasova who was awarded the ‘Most Outstanding Senior’ had her collection inspired by Qatar’s nature — the desert sand dunes.
“For me art is a way to communicate my feelings to
the outside world”, she remarks.
The vivid collection of Alanoud
al-Nuaimi and Marianne F Bermejo won the ‘Most Outstanding Senior Collection’ award. Both represented bold experiments in designing, deviating from the norm and out of the ordinary.
Alanoud whose creation was influenced by the underground punk style, the 80s Heavy Metal fashion and the bold colours and prints of street graffiti, says “My motto is ‘Fashion should be Fun! I love street wear because it is personal, always original. One can continuously mix and match pieces and accessories to create their own original look.”
Marianne’s collection depicted fluffy soft toys as an out-of-the-box ingredient in her design. “My senior collection reflects the combination of two distinct elements — my passion for plush toy animals and Japanese ‘Harajuku’ Street Fashion. Both elements are colourful, fun and light hearted, making my collection a unique and fresh expression of my personality”, reflects Marianne.
Other students who received the awards were Samia Mohammad for Best Children’s Collection, Mahnoor Ansari for Most Outstanding Sophomore, Noor al-Mannai for Best Black Dress Collection, Kinda Morshed for Best Junior Collection and Dylon Sergei Adonis for Most Outstanding Junior.
Special Recognition Awards were presented to two seniors from the Richmond campus Noela Tian and Joey Zuraf.
“My fall/winter collection was inspired by minimal art and ecdysis, the process snakes go through while shedding skin. I designed my garments to look as if they were falling off the body, similar to the way a snake’s skin peels off its body!” says Joey.
Noela’s ‘Nude Soul collection’ depicting her calligraphic ink painted print which resembles the organic silhouette of mountain and streams. Encouraged by Taoism’s philosophy of living in harmony, Noela pronounces, “Most often, we don’t see things as they are but as we are, and we see things depending on what we are looking for. And, I’d like you, my audience, to see the true you.” Special Recognition for Outstanding Leadership was presented to Nada Taha. Wilkins also announced Alanoud al-Nuaimi, Fatima Maki and Noor Abdulla Hamad al-Thani’s collections as chosen to be showcased at VCU Richmond.
Nada’s ensemble was inspired by ancient Egypt and used a wide range of draping. Noor enjoyed using pleats and ruffles in her designs while Fatima mixed “today’s trends with a nice touch of my culture, adding flavour and deeper value to my collection.”
The talent presented by students assures a promising future for the fashion industry in Qatar. Also equally worth mentioning is the enthusiastic participation and involvement of the private sector, encouraging and taking on the role of mentors.
As put forth by Issa AbdulSalam Abu Issa, Salam International Chairman and CEO, “Throughout our six-decade history, we have demonstrated an insatiable thirst for pursuing luxury, style, design, beauty and creativity. And we have sought out ways to engage with those who share our passion.”
On these lines, The Salam Fashion Award was introduced last year to support a graduate’s transition from student designer to a career in design. The award includes mentoring the development and design of two bespoke collections which will be sold exclusively within a dedicated space in Salam Stores, Doha.
This year Maha Khalifa al-Subaey is the designer to watch for who has received this award. She says, “After graduation, I will be focusing on my businesses —“The Kayys” a high-end fashion brand and “FML” a ready-to-wear brand. I want to expand my boundaries and push myself as a designer. I want to make a mark in the world — make a change, not just as a fashion designer but also as a person. As Beyonce said, “I was here!”
Also, for the fourth consecutive year, the W Doha Hotel and Residences sponsored the W Doha Fashion Award, presented to the most outstanding and innovative VCUQatar fashion design student of the year that was awarded to Alexia Thomas.
The award includes the opportunity to use W Doha and another W Hotel around the globe, as a platform to showcase her collections at various events happening throughout the year. Her dresses depicted an eclectic use of varied fabric blended soothingly in designs that harmonised contemporary into traditional.
The event portrayed an artistic versatility of thoughts brought together onto a common platform that was open to the verdict and admiration of fashion enthusiasts from across the region.
The new generation of indigenous designers have come across as confident and forward looking. They are not afraid of change and believe in self-expression. While being an integral part of traditions, they don’t confine their imagination into boundaries. Such talent, now finding mentors in powerful fashion stores is what will define Qatar’s fashion portfolio in the years to come. Should we say already that it is “cut to kill?”
