The Japanese are credited with first preparing sushi as a complete dish,
eating the fermented rice together with the preserved fish. Aney Mathew
meets Chef Mads Wolff in Doha to find out more
Think Japanese food and the first thing that pops into the head is ‘raw’ fish. Few foods can intimidate beginners like sushi.
My first rendezvous with Japan’s gift to the culinary world was more than two decades ago, when hubby and I decided to brave it out by trying the exotic Japanese fare.
Initially, the idea of eating raw fish seemed off-putting, but once the mental barrier was broken, we found ourselves enjoying it so much, that we ended up eating the ‘raw’ seafood, leaving behind the vinegar-flavoured rice!
Sushi can boast of a legitimate fan following that is global and expanding. As with all things celebrated, there are several interesting legends associated with the origin of sushi.
One adaptation has it that an elderly woman began hiding her pots of rice in osprey nests, fearing that thieves would steal them. Over time, she collected her pots and found the rice had begun to ferment. She also discovered that fish scraps from the osprey’s meal had mixed into the rice. Not only was the resulting mixture tasty, but the rice served as a way of preserving the fish, thus starting a new way of extending the shelf life of seafood. Besides this amusing narrative, it is believed that the process of using fermented rice as a fish preservative originated in Southeast Asia several centuries ago.
The concept of sushi was probably introduced to Japan in the ninth century and became popular there as Buddhism spread — with fish emerging as a dietary staple. The Japanese are credited with first preparing sushi as a complete dish, eating the fermented rice together with the preserved fish. This combination of rice and fish is known as nare-zushi, or “aged sushi”. This process however took months.
Over time the Japanese found that the fermentation process was quicker when the fish were packed in salted rice and packed down under weights; increasing the weights seemed to speed up the process even more. Fast-forward to the 1820s a ‘speed fermentation’ process emerged, when rice vinegar and salt were added to freshly cooked rice and left to sit for just a few minutes.
Sushi has been constantly evolving to the point where you can even find ‘vegetarian’ sushi today. For those who enjoy fishy encounters, Community offers more on Japan’s finest fare.
Facilitating the ‘raw’ experience is Chef Mads Wolff, Chef de Cuisine at W Doha Hotel and Residences. Chef Mads comes with an impressive background in gastronomical education and training, with both European as well as Japanese culinary expertise. As a matter of fact, he travelled to Japan to explore the beauty of Asians specialties, spices and cooking techniques.
Talking about sushi in general, Chef Mads says, “Sushi restaurants in Japan are of high quality, it takes years to learn just how to wash and cook the rice properly. Simply put, sushi is fermented rice and to fish-it has become a form of art, which has been developed over 1000 years into what it is today.
He continues, “While the flavours are simple and unique, the most important aspect is learning how to cook the rice and slice the fish. Today, sushi has spread from the Japanese Sushi Masters and become a global delicacy. Here at W Doha, sushi is in high demand and we have several guests who keep coming back to experience our Japanese dishes.”
“The variety of fish used to make sushi in Japan is endless. What’s more? It is not just limited to fresh fish. Sushi can be made with a large range of ingredients: fish, vegetables, beef or even fruit; in each category, you have different cuts and selections. An example would be Toro, the stomach meat from a Bluefin tuna — Its prime cut. I’ve had sushi with wagyu beef and even foie gras; one of my favourites is aji, a Japanese Jack mackerel. The types of sushi and variations are non-ending and are limited only by imagination. I’ve even tried an exotic fruit sushi with Macha green tea cream, dipped in chocolate sauce — a very interesting adaptation of the traditional sushi. Naturally, most of these sushi varieties are only found in Japan. Outside of Japan, tuna and salmon are the commonly used ingredients in preparing sushi.”
Confusion over sushi and sashimi are common place and people often mistake one for the other. Sushi comes in various types.
‘Sashimi’ is just the raw fish or meat sliced out with precision and served without the rice, while Nigiri is a small amount of rice topped with a beautifully sliced fresh fish. Another popular sushi is the Maki — these are rolls categorised by their shape, size and the amount of rice in the roll.
Describing the common types of sushi, Chef Mads explains, “Sushi covers a variety of dishes, forms and shapes. The heart of sushi is the rice. It has to be in perfect balance — sweet and sour; equally important is the way it is cooked and retained.
“Originally nigiri was meant only as finger food. When enjoying a nigiri with soy, you must take care that only the fish is dipped and not the rice. This way the soy just marinates the fish slightly, bringing out the perfect flavour; otherwise, the rice absorbs too much soy, resulting in an overpowering taste.”
“As for the different types of maki; futo maki is a big roll with lots of filling, while hoso maki is a slim roll; the uramaki is one where the nori (seaweed) is in the middle of the roll. Additionally, temaki is another famous cone-shaped, hand-rolled sushi.
“A famous Japanese delicacy is the poisonous fugu fish (Blow fish). If not cut right, the poison can spread to the meat and can be lethally poisonous. This is a risky Japanese delicacy and has to be cut only by an authorised sushi chef. It takes seven years to learn the skill and one has to pass several examinations. The fugu is often enjoyed as sashimi in some of the finest Japanese restaurants. I’ve been lucky enough to have had the opportunity to work alongside such a chef during my travels; such a skill set can only be admired and respected” he adds.
As we wind up, Chef Mads offers his final recommendation, “If you ever have a chance to go and explore Japan and Japanese food, don’t hold back; it is simple, amazing cooking with a lot to offer. Try out grilled oyster from the coast of Hiroshima, or the sushi in Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market. Alternatively, you can enjoy street food; the local food market in Kyoto and the local specialities from Iriomote Island near Okinawa offer great culinary experiences.”