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Respecting the traditions of Lebanese cuisine
Respecting the traditions of Lebanese cuisine
June 05, 2016 | 02:44 AM
Modern fusion and clever twists are fast becoming the norm in fine dining circles. On the other hand, precious few can stake a claim at delivering true-blue, authentic cuisine that encapsulates the riches of culture and history of the region – like Misk.Traditional Lebanese cuisine gets the respect and sincerity it deserves at City Centre Rotana Doha’s new restaurant Misk. Joseph Coubat, General Manager of City Centre Rotana Doha, says, “For the first time in Qatar, we are aiming to provide an innovative and traditional cuisine amid an authentic Lebanese atmosphere.”The visually delicious décor stirs up a dreamy mood while the range of authentic Lebanese dishes completes the dream. From cold appetisers (mezze) such as Hummus with Ras Asfour meat and pine nuts, Hummus with sausage and pistachio, Hummus Beiruti, Raheb Salad, and Lebanese Eggplant Moussaka, to hot ones such as Shrimp with Coriander, Fried Samak Bizri, Kibbeh Beirutia, Hot Kibbeh Zghartaweya with Walnuts, Sausage and Octopus in Vinegar and Lemon, it’s hard to take your pick.Dishes such as Green Kishk, Shanklish, Basturma (Pastirma), Batarekh (Roe), Warak Enab (Grape Leaves), Hindbeh (Dandelions) with Olive Oil, Lubia with Olive Oil, Siliq Stems in Tahina, Jabalia Salad, Kibbeh Nayyeh and Kafta Nayyeh, apart from the succulent Lebanese grilled platters such as Shiqaf, Taouk-grilled Chicken, Chicken Misahab, Arayes Lahmeh (Meat), Arayes Kafta, Kafta with Yogurt, Kafta Istanbouli, and Kafta with Tahina, might leave you wondering what kind of thought has gone behind this extensive menu. Community meets Coubat who takes us through the essence of Lebanese cuisine and why that had to be conveyed through Misk:Lebanese cuisine is becoming an international cuisine. A lot of restaurateurs are now trying to give it a spin with their “fusions”. What we at Misk are trying to do is achieve the authentic taste. For me, it’s about feeling the products, smelling the spices, seeing what is available in the market and based on that, trying to do our best out of it. To find the right product here, sometimes, is almost impossible. Often when I return to Doha from Lebanon, I bring bottles of rose water and pomegranate molasses made in the villages of Lebanon because I can’t find those products here. It takes more than 10 kilos of pomegranates to produce one 750 ml bottle of molasses.The menu of Misk was designed and the items were chosen based on what we could find fresh in the market in order to get the best out of it, in terms of taste and authenticity with respect to the original dish. And this is where the story starts – whether to go fusion or stay traditional.The mezze (Lebanese appetisers) has become a cliché, a commodity. But it features dishes that I still like to have. They can be very simple recipes perfected by our grandmothers, but why are they hidden? What is the meaning of mezze, as a concept? Mezze is all about sharing food. Usually, back in Lebanon, we enjoy mezze on special occasions or Sundays.In Lebanon, we say that the dinner table should look rich. The generosity of the mezze goes back to those days when nobody was supposed to finish them. When you are served a mezze of 40 dishes, how can you? Meals would be like a gathering around a table that would go on for hours.We import, especially fruits and vegetables directly by air from three suppliers in Lebanon. Also, we have our special orders; like we order the Wagyu beef and Australian lamb. I love cooking. It’s my hobby. I spend half of my weekend cooking and inviting friends. Since I have been cooking for more than 40 years now, I know exactly what I want to taste. I prepare the cuisine just the way I want it. I even refer to old recipes or call grandmothers of my Lebanese friends for precise directions. As for the presentation, I have left that to our Executive Chef, who has put a spin by using colourful vessels or cast-iron cookware to serve.The beauty of the Lebanese cuisine is that it evolved. We refined it. We are lucky to be from a country where the quality of air, water, and earth is really unique. That’s why we get the best tomatoes, parsley, cucumbers. I remember when I was a kid, for three months in the winter, there would be no tabbouleh on the table as parsley and tomatoes won’t grow in those months. Nowadays, of course, the ingredients travel everywhere. Yet the taste may not be there. What we are trying to do with Misk is return to the taste of the traditional cuisine.I didn’t expect our Lamb Tongue to be so popular. We have dishes made of lamb brain and ingredients nobody dares to touch in Doha. That’s because raw meat delicacies can be tricky. They mandate an extremely high level of hygiene while dealing with them in the kitchen. I am very particular about this. The Lebanese usually don’t opt for raw meat delicacies outside their homes; certain platters are reserved only to be prepared by their mothers or grandmothers. I know how difficult they can be because I am one of them. So when they appreciate our food at Misk, which they do, it’s the most rewarding compliment I can get.
June 05, 2016 | 02:44 AM